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The ʻahu ʻula (feather cape or cloak in the Hawaiian language, literally "red/sacred garment for the upper torso"^[1]),^[2] and the mahiole (feather helmet) were symbols of the highest rank of the chiefly aliʻi^[3] class of ancient Hawaii.

There are over 160 examples of this traditional clothing in museums around the world.^[2]^[4] At least sixteen of these capes were collected during the voyages of Captain Cook.^[5]^[6]

These cloaks are made from a woven netting decorated with bird feathers and are examples of fine featherwork techniques. One of these cloaks was included in a painting of Cook's death by Johann Zoffany.

Privileges

The use of ʻahu ʻula cloaks/capes were restricted to aliʻi royals and high chiefs, generally speaking, though they could be conferred to warriors of special distinction.^[7] The feather helmet (mahiole^[7]) was a royal item as well.^[8]^[a]

The size of the ʻahu ʻula was an indicator of rank.^[10] Some commentators distinguish the full-length ʻahu ʻula as "cloaks", extending from the neck to nearly the feet, and these were allowable only the highest-ranking elite, where as regular chiefs wore "capes" of lesser sizes.^[11]^[12] Holt also makes such distinction, glossing ʻahuliʻī as "feather cape" (liʻī meaning "small" ) and ʻahuʻula as "feather cloak".^[13]

Some examples of ʻahu ʻula have been discussed as "war capes"^[14]^[15] (Cf. § War capes for specific examples, below).

The feathered cloaks and capes provided physical protection, and were believed to provide spiritual protection for their wearers.^[16]^[17] And conversely the mana (spiritual power) of the wearer will be imparted on the cape,^[18] and the father's mana can pass down to his heirs via the cape.^[19]

Construction

The Hawaiian feather cloaks were decorated using yellow, red, sometimes black and green plumage taken from specific types of native birds.^[20]^[21] (cf. § Bird feathers below).

The plant used to make the netting is olonā or Touchardia latifolia, a member of the nettle family^[22] (cf. § Early and later types).

Hundreds of thousands of feathers were required for each cloak. A small bundle of feathers (ʻuo or ʻuwo^[23]) was gathered and tied into the netting. Bundles were tied in close proximity to form a uniform covering of the surface of the cloak.^[24]^[25]

Bird feathers

Patches of yellow axillary feathers from certain mostly black birds (now all extinct) were extracted, namely, the ʻōʻō^[2] (Moho nobilis or generically the fours species of the genus) and mamo (Drepanis pacifica) using a catch and release philosophy due to their scarcity, to ensure future availability.^[26] The mamo feathers were described as yellow by some, or yellow tinged with orange by others^[9] and its use was restricted to not just royals, but a king of an entire island.^[9]^[7] Kamehameha I's vestment of pure mamo was dubbed "Golden Cloak" by some writers,^[27] but Brigham explains that the feathers from the mamo are actually orange, compared with ʻōʻō feathers which are "pale yellow",^[b] but fading cause the two types to appear both yellow and hard to distinguish.^[29] It has been suggested the combined use of yellow and red feathers was meant to simulate the royal orange of mamo plumage.^[9]^[30]

The scarlet and curve-beaked honeycreeper ʻiʻiwi (Vestiaria coccinea) was the main source of the distinctive red feathers,^[2] though the straight-beaked red honeycreeper ʻapapane (Himatione sanguinea) was also included.^[31]^[20]^[32] Because of their comparative abundance (and since all of their feather could be used), these were traditionally killed and skinned.^[31]

The black feathers of the ʻōʻō were also used.^[33] The endangered (or already extinct) ʻōʻū with its green plumage were used on some examples,^[20] though rarely.^[21] David Malo (19th cent.) includes the amakihi bird^[7] referring to yellow-green birds of several species of honeycreepers. These were some of the birds whose "feathers were taken to fashion the gods, the helmets, cloaks and lei".^[20]

Conservation

While it was permissible to slaughter the red birds since the plumage of its whole body were useful, the black with yellow birds were protect Kamehameha I who commanded that these be captured alive then released after harvesting the yellow feathers. By the 19th century however, this kapu was suspected of not being strictly observed by all the native bird-catchers, and in fact, recorded as being eaten for food.^[26]^[7]^[34]

The Hawaii mamo became extinct around the end of the 19th century,^[34] and the black mamo last collected in 1907.^[35] Henshaw suspected the rapid decline was due to increased use of shotgun over traditional methods of bird-catching using snares and birdlime^[34] (cf. Hawaii mamo). All species of ʻōʻō had become extinct by 1987,^[35] with the probable cause being disease.

Both the red species can still be found in Hawaii, but in much reduced numbers, due to various causes, and exploitation of feather is thought by some to be minimal effect on population decline.^[36]

Early and later types

Early feathered capes used coarse netting as foundation, first covered by larger but drab-colored feathers (white, black, brown, form chicken or jungle fowl and other birds), atop which decorative feathers were mounted. Later, closer-plaited (hand-knotted) meshes were developed to be used as base, to which the prized feathers could be attached directly.^[37]^[12]^[8] The fine mesh were known as nae (or naepuni or puni^[16]), and woven from olonā fiber.^[38]^[39]^[28] Also the shape evolved from rectangular to circular, but all the known rectangular specimens (including the "war capes" discussed above) are held outside of Hawaii. The circular type may have developed in Hawaii due to foreign (non-Polynesian) influence.^[c]^[40]

Also, early types of Hawaiian feather cloaks were rectangular, though none of the surviving examples remained in Hawaii and have been kept elsewhere, so that only the later circular forms became generally family to the Hawaiian populace.^[d]^[40] These early type small capes or rectangular ʻahu ʻula include § War capes types, below.^[14]^[41]

The earlier types lumped together as "rectangular" by Hiroa (aka Buck, 1944, 1957) were later subdivided into the "trapezoidal" type vs. "straight collar with shaped bottom" type by Kaeppler (1985).^[42]

Gift to Captain James Cook

When British explorer James Cook visited in Hawai‘i on 26 January 1778 he was received by a high chief Kalaniʻōpuʻu. At the end of the meeting Kalaniʻōpuʻu placed the feathered mahiole and cloak he had been wearing on Cook. Kalaniʻōpuʻu also laid several other cloaks at Cook's feet as well as four large pigs and other offerings of food.^[45]^[46] Much of the material from Cook's voyages including the helmet and cloak ended up in the collection of Sir Ashton Lever. He exhibited them in his museum, the Holophusikon,^[47]^[48] including Kalaniʻōpuʻu's cape and helm.^[49]^[50] It was while at this museum that Cook's mahiole and cloak were borrowed by artist Johann Zoffany in the 1790s and included in his painting The Death of Captain James Cook.^[51]^[52]

Lever went bankrupt and his collection was disposed of by public lottery. The collection was obtained by James Parkinson who continued to exhibit it, at the Blackfriars Rotunda in London. He eventually sold the collection in 1806 in 7,000 separate sales.^[51] The mahiole and cloak were purchased by the collector William Bullock who exhibited them in his own museum until 1819 when the collection was again sold.^{[citation needed]} The mahiole and cloak were then purchased by Charles Winn along with a number of other items and these remained in his family^{[citation needed]} until 1912, when Charles Winn's grandson, Rowland Winn, 2nd Baron St Oswald, gave them to the Dominion of New Zealand,^[53] precursor to the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa,^[54]^[55]^[e] but the cloak and helmet were repatriated to Hawaii as of March 2016, on a long-term loan basis, into the custody of the Bishop Museum.^[54]^[55]

ʻAhu ʻula in museums

The Bishop Museum in Honolulu is in possession of perhaps fifteen or more ʻahu ʻula,^[57]^[f] including the magnificent full-length cloak of King Kamehameha, made entirely of mamo feathers (450,000 feathers from 80,000 birds.), though some i'iwi red feathers were added to the trimming later when Kamehameha IV wore it ceremonially.^[58]^[11]^[1]

The feather cloak of Kīwalaʻō is another item at the Bishop of special provenance. It belonged to Kīwalaʻō, son of the Kalaniʻōpuʻu (aforementioned as the gift-giver to Captain Cook)^[59] and Beaglehole claims it was what Kīwalaʻō wore when Captain Cook was killed.^[10] Kīwalaʻō was later killed by Kamehameha I who then obtained the cloak.^[59]^[12]

The Bishop also houses a 200-year-old mahiole and matching cloak. This bright red and yellow cloak was given to the king of Kauaʻi, Kaumualiʻi, when he became a vassal to Kamehameha I in 1810, uniting all the islands into the Hawaiian Kingdom.^[60]

The de Young Museum in San Francisco displayed several cloaks in a special exhibition in 2015–2016, in collaboration with the Bishop Museum (cf. fig. above),^[61] with capes on loan from other institutions as well.^[62]

War capes

As already noted, the early small capes^[14] or the "rectangular" style capes are all housed in collections outside Hawaii.^[63]

Those examples classed as shorter ʻahu ʻula for combat, i.e., "war capes" include for example a cape from the Cook expedition held by the Australian Museum in Sydney.^[64]^[65] There are four similar "war capes" in the British Museum.^[66]^[g]^[h]

Further examples

The National Museums of Scotland show a feather cloak that was given in 1824 from King Kamehameha II of Hawaii to Frederich Gerald Byng thanking for his service in London.^[67]

The Te Papa in New Zealand has three ʻahu ʻula in its collection. All were gifts of Rowland Winn, 2nd Baron St Oswald, in 1912.^[68]^[69]^[70] The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa believes that one of these cloaks was placed on Captain James Cook by the Hawaiian chief Kalaniʻōpuʻu.^[71]^[i]

Auckland War Memorial Museum acquired a cloak for its collection in 1948.^[72]

Musée d'ethnographie de Genève displays an early 19th-century cloak on its permanent exhibition. It was considered the museums most precious item by the institution's founder, Eugène Pittard.^[73]

Explanatory notes

^ The use of mamo feathers was more restrictive, and at a minimum the kingship of an entire island had to be attained in order to use them.^[9]^[7]
^ Or "bright yellow".^[28]
^ Cf. Māori feather cloaks whose known examples are rectangular.
^ Māori rectangular robes remain in New Zealand, as Hiroa notes.
^ Cook's mahiole and cloak are featured in episode 52 of the mini-documentary television series Tales from Te Papa.^[56]
^ The aforementioned Kalaniʻōpuʻu cloak which arrived in Bishop Museum from New Zealand in 2016 being a loan, not an acquisition.^[55]
^ The other "war capes" named by Brigham (1918), pp. 12–13 are a cape at Leyden, No. 64 and another at the Peabody Essex Museum of Salem, Mass., No. 94. Hiroa (1944), pp. 4–5 identifies the Vienna cape with exposed netting (Pl. 8, 9; cf. Hellmich (2015), Fig. 10 in full colour) as a war cape, citing Brigham (1918)
^ A man wears what Hiroa asserts to be a "war cape" in John Webber's etching "An inland view, in Atooi (Kauai Island)" in Capt. Cooke (King's) A voyage to the Pacific Ocean, Atlas of Plates volume, Pl. 35. A replica by William Hodges can be seen here.
^ The twice aforementioned Kalaniʻōpuʻu cloak now on long-term loan to Hawaii's Bishop Muesum, as of 2016.^[55]

References

Citations

^ ^a ^b Kamehiro, Stacy L. (2009). The Arts of Kingship: Hawaiian Art and National Culture of the Kalakaua Era. University of Hawaii Press. pp. 45–47. ISBN 9780824832636.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d Mary Kawena Pukui; Samuel Hoyt Elbert (2003). "lookup of ʻahu ʻula". in Hawaiian Dictionary. Ulukau, the Hawaiian Electronic Library, University of Hawaii Press.
^ Mary Kawena Pukui; Samuel Hoyt Elbert (2003). "lookup of aliʻi". in Hawaiian Dictionary. Ulukau, the Hawaiian Electronic Library, University of Hawaii Press. Retrieved 12 February 2011.
^ Cf. Kaeppler (2010), Catalogue
^ Brigham (1918), "Revised List of Hawaiian Ahuula", pp. 59–61 lists 16 capes (incl. 1 cloak) and additional items as "Cook (?)".
^ Kaeppler (1985), p. 112 using subtypes counts 6 "trapezoidal" types and 10 "straight necklines and shaped bottoms" type.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f Malo, David (1903). Hawaiian Antiquities: (Moolelo Hawaii). Translated by Emerson, Nathaniel Bright. Honolulu: Hawaiian Gazette. pp. 63, 106–107.
^ ^a ^b ^c Pratt, H. Douglas (2005). The Hawaiian Honeycreepers: Drepanidinae. OUP Oxford. pp. 279–280. ISBN 9780198546535.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d Hall (1923), pp. 41, 42.
^ ^a ^b Beaglehole, J.C., ed. (2017). The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery: Volume III Part 1: The Voyage of the Resolution and Discovery, 1776-1780. Routledge. n1, Supplement to p. 594. ISBN 9781351543217.
^ ^a ^b Kirch, Patrick Vinton (2019). How Chiefs Became Kings: Divine Kingship and the Rise of Archaic States in Ancient Hawai'i. Univ of California Press. pp. 43–44. ISBN 9780520303393.
^ ^a ^b ^c Harger, Barbara (1983). "Dress and Adornment of Pre-European Hawaiians" (PDF). National Meeting Proceedings. Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing: 9–10.
^ Holt (1985), p. 169
^ ^a ^b ^c Brigham (1918), p. 12.
^ Hiroa (1944), pp. 4–5.
^ ^a ^b Kaeppler (1985), p. 119.
^ "Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Nā Hulu Ali'i". de Young. 2014-07-29. Retrieved 2021-06-05.
^ Kaeppler (2010), p. 11 apud Hellmich (2015), p. 75
^ Kaeppler (1985), pp. 116–117.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d Capt. Charles Clerke's description of birds whose feathers were used (from Capt. Cooke's voyage) apud Holt (1985), p. 21: "ʻiʻiwi.. main source of red feathers", etc., as described by
^ ^a ^b Hiroa (1944), p. 1.
^ Mary Kawena Pukui; Samuel Hoyt Elbert (2003). "lookup of olonā". in Hawaiian Dictionary. Ulukau, the Hawaiian Electronic Library, University of Hawaii Press.
^ Mary Kawena Pukui; Samuel Hoyt Elbert (2003). "lookup of ʻuo". in Hawaiian Dictionary. Ulukau, the Hawaiian Electronic Library, University of Hawaii Press.
^ Brigham (1899), pp. 51–52.
^ Arcayna, Nancy (12 September 2008). "Cloaked in native culture: Kaha'i Topolinski preserves the art of Hawaiian feather work". Honolulu Star Bulletin. Retrieved 28 November 2010.
^ ^a ^b Hiroa (1944), p. 10.
^ Withington, Antoinette (1986) [1953]. The Golden Cloak: Tales of the Pacific. Mutual Publishing LLC. p. x. ISBN 9780935180268.
^ ^a ^b Bishop, Marcia Brown (1940). Hawaiian Life of the Pre-European Period. Southworth-Anthoensen Press. pp. 36–37.
^ Brigham (1899), pp. 10–11.
^ Brigham (1899), p. 10.
^ ^a ^b Hiroa (1944), pp. 9–10.
^ The feather items collected by Captain Cooke's voyagers were "almost invariably those of the ʻiʻiwi", but one exception employed patches of feathered skin, some belonging to ʻapapane.^[8]
^ But not the dull black feathers of the mamo (Hiroa (1944), pp. 1, 10).
^ ^a ^b ^c Henshaw, H. W. (1902). Birds of the Hawaiian Islands: Being a Complete List of the Birds of the Hawaiian Possessions, with Notes on Their Habits. Honolulu: Thomas G. Thrum. pp. 51–53.
^ ^a ^b Peterson, Roger Tory (2020). Peterson Field Guide to Birds of North America (2 ed.). Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. p. 456. ISBN 9781328771445.
^ "Kauaʻi ʻŌʻō" (PDF). Hawaii’s Comprehensive Wildlife Conservation Strategy. State of Hawaiʻi. 1 October 2005. Retrieved 28 November 2010.
^ Hiroa (1944), p. 8.
^ Brigham (1899), pp. 50–51 with photographs and illustrations.
^ Hiroa (1944), p. 2 and weaving illustrated in Fig. 1.
^ ^a ^b Hiroa (1944), pp. 1, 3–4.
^ Hiroa (1944), pp. 3–5.
^ Kaeppler (1985), pp. 111–112.
^ Jarves, James Jackson (1843). History of the Hawaiian Islands: Embracing Their Antiquities, Mythology, Legends, Discovery by Europeans in the Sixteenth Century, Re-discovery by Cook. London: Edward Moxon. pp. 99, 2.
^ Cook (1842), p. 377.
^ Cook's Journal, [26] January 1779: "Terreeoboo (=Kalaniʻōpuʻu, king of Owhyhee^[43])rose up, and.. threw over the Captain's shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan into his hand. He also spread at his feet five or six other cloaks.."^[44]
^ Jarves (1843), p. 105.
^ Thomas (2016), pp. 77–81.
^ Both Thomas (2016), n28 and Scobie (2019) defer to Kaeppler's 2011 book for a full account of the museum: Kaeppler, Adrienne (2011), Holophusicon--the Leverian Museum: An Eighteenth-century English Institution of Science, Curiosity, and Art, Vienna: ZKF Publishers, ISBN 9783981162042
^ Thomas (2016), pp. 82–83.
^ Scobie, Ruth (2019). "Chapter 2 The Immortality of James Cook". Celebrity Culture and the Myth of Oceania in Britain: 1770-1823. Boydell & Brewer. pp. 65–66. ISBN 9781783274086.
^ ^a ^b Kaeppler, Adrienne (28 July 2006). "Transcript of Paper: To attempt some new discoveries in that vast unknown tract". Cook’s Pacific Encounters symposium. National Museum of Australia. Retrieved 28 November 2010.^{[permanent dead link]}
^ Kaeppler, Adrienne (1978), "Artificial Curiosities": Being an Exposition of Native Manufactures Collected on the Three Pacific Voyages of Captain James Cook, R. N., at the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, January 18, 1978-August 31, 1978, on the Occasion of the Bicentennial of the European Discovery of the Hawaiian Islands ..., Bishop Museum Press, p. 62, ISBN 9780910240246
^ Brigham (1918), pp. 41–42.
^ ^a ^b "Cloak and Helmet Gifted to Captain Cook is Permanently Returned to Hawaiʻi". Ka Wai Ola. Office of Hawaiian Affairs. 29 July 2020.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d Schorch, Philipp (2020). Refocusing Ethnographic Museums through Oceanic Lenses. Noelle M.K.Y. Kahanu, Sean Mallon, Cristián Moreno Pakarati, Mara Mulrooney, Nina Tonga, Ty P. Kāwika Tengan. University of Hawaii Press. pp. 6–7. ISBN 9780824881177.
^ "A Captain's Chiefly Gift – Tales from Te Papa episode 52". Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 16 November 2010.
^ Brigham (1899), p. 56 list of 100 ʻahu ʻula was later revised in Brigham (1918), p. 39 to a list of 117 worldwide, of which 1–16 are at the Bishop Museum, but includes 1 pau; 6 are "cloaks" the rest are "capes". Hiroa (1944), p. 3 says there are 10 cloaks.
^ Brigham (1899) #1, p. 58
^ ^a ^b Brigham (1899) #2., pp. 58–59
^ "Bishop Museum Loans Rare Artifacts to Kauai'i". Bishop Museum, Honolulu. 19 October 2006. Retrieved 28 November 2010.
^ "Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Nā Hulu Ali'i". de Young/Legion of Honour Fine arts museums of San Francisco. 11 August 2015. Retrieved 2024-03-22.
^ "Feather Cloak: National Museum of Natural History". Smithsonian Institute. Retrieved 2024-03-22.. Feather cloak originally of Chief Kekuakalani held by the National Museum of Natural History (USNM Number E76180-0).
^ Hiroa (1944), pp. 3–4.
^ Brigham (1918), p. 12, item No. 73 in the Revised List, p. 59
^ Hawaiian feather cape presented to Captain Cook, 1778
^ Brigham (1918), p. 12, naming No. 26, similar to No. 33–35 in the Revised List, p. 59, cross-referenced to Brigham (1899), pp. <!64 recte-->65, 66, Fig. 69, 76–78 (olim No. 25, 32–34 in the outdated list)
^ J. Susan Corley: „National Museums Scotland Displays One of Kamehameha II’s Featherwork ‘Ahu‘ula Cloaks“ auf evols.library.manoa.hawaii.edu
^ "ʻahu ʻula (Feathered cloak)". Collections Online. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 28 November 2010.
^ "ʻahu ʻula (Feathered cloak)". Collections Online. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 28 November 2010.
^ "ʻahu ʻula (Feathered cloak)". Collections Online. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 28 November 2010.
^ "Hawaiian feather cloak (ʻahu ʻula) and helmet (mahiole)". Collections Online. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 28 November 2010.
^ "My favourite object: Ahu'ula". Auckland Museum. Retrieved 13 June 2021.
^ "The 'ahu'ula feather cloak". Musée d'ethnographie de Genève. Retrieved 6 December 2022.

Bibliography

Brigham, William T. (1899), "Hawaiian Feather Work", Memoirs of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum of Polynesian Ethnology and Natural History Publication (Bayard Dominick Expedition (1920-1921), vol. I, Bishop Museum Press, pp. 1–81 + ii
—— (1918), "Additional notes on Hawaiian feather work: second supplement", Memoirs of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, vol. VII, Bishop Museum Press

Cook, James (1842), "Hawaiian Feather Work", The Voyages of Captain James Cook. Illustrated ... With an Appendix, Giving an Account of the Present Condition of the South Sea Islands, vol. 2, London: William Smith

Hall, H. U. (March 1923). "Two Hawaiian Feather Garments, Ahuula". The Museum Journal (University of Pennsylvania). 14 (1): 34–46.

Hellmich, Christina (2015), Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Na. Hulu Ali'i (ART on view) (PDF), pp. 75–81Hellmich (2015)

Hiroa, Te Rangi (1944). "The Local Evolution of Hawaiian Feather Capes and Cloaks". The Journal of the Polynesian Society. 53 (1): 1–16. Archived from the original on 2008-10-14.

Holt, John Dominis (1985). The Art of Featherwork in Old Hawai'i. Topgallant Publishing Company. ISBN 9780914916680.

Kaeppler, Adrienne (1985), Hooper, Antony; Huntsman, Judith (eds.), "Hawaiian Art and Society : Traditions and Transformations", Transformations of Polynesian Culture, Memoirs of the Polynesian Society 45, Auckland: Wellington Polynesian Society, pp. 105–131, ISBN 9780317392326
—— (2010), Rooij, Willem de; Meyer-Krahmer, Benjamin (eds.), "Hawaiian Featherwork: Catalogue Raisonné of Pre-1900 Feathered-God Images, Cloaks, Capes, Helmets", Intolerance, Berlin: Nationalgalerie— Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, p. 1, ISBN 3941459236

Thomas, Sophie (2016). "Chapter 3 Feather Cloaks and English Collectors: Cook's Voyages and the Objects of the Museum". In Baird, Ileana; Ionescu, Christina (eds.). Eighteenth-Century Thing Theory in a Global Context: From Consumerism to Celebrity Culture. Routledge. pp. 69–88. ISBN 9781317145455.

[10] The use of mamo feathers was more restrictive, and at a minimum the kingship of an entire island had to be attained in order to use them.^[9]^[7]

[30] Or "bright yellow".^[28]

[42] Cf. Māori feather cloaks whose known examples are rectangular.

[44] Māori rectangular robes remain in New Zealand, as Hiroa notes.

[61] Cook's mahiole and cloak are featured in episode 52 of the mini-documentary television series Tales from Te Papa.^[56]

[63] The aforementioned Kalaniʻōpuʻu cloak which arrived in Bishop Museum from New Zealand in 2016 being a loan, not an acquisition.^[55]

[73] The other "war capes" named by Brigham (1918), pp. 12–13 are a cape at Leyden, No. 64 and another at the Peabody Essex Museum of Salem, Mass., No. 94. Hiroa (1944), pp. 4–5 identifies the Vienna cape with exposed netting (Pl. 8, 9; cf. Hellmich (2015), Fig. 10 in full colour) as a war cape, citing Brigham (1918)

[74] A man wears what Hiroa asserts to be a "war cape" in John Webber's etching "An inland view, in Atooi (Kauai Island)" in Capt. Cooke (King's) A voyage to the Pacific Ocean, Atlas of Plates volume, Pl. 35. A replica by William Hodges can be seen here.

[80] The twice aforementioned Kalaniʻōpuʻu cloak now on long-term loan to Hawaii's Bishop Muesum, as of 2016.^[55]

[kamehiro2009-1] Kamehiro, Stacy L. (2009). The Arts of Kingship: Hawaiian Art and National Culture of the Kalakaua Era. University of Hawaii Press. pp. 45–47. ISBN 9780824832636.

[dict-ahuula-2] Mary Kawena Pukui; Samuel Hoyt Elbert (2003). "lookup of ʻahu ʻula". in Hawaiian Dictionary. Ulukau, the Hawaiian Electronic Library, University of Hawaii Press.

[dict-alii-3] Mary Kawena Pukui; Samuel Hoyt Elbert (2003). "lookup of aliʻi". in Hawaiian Dictionary. Ulukau, the Hawaiian Electronic Library, University of Hawaii Press. Retrieved 12 February 2011.

[4] Cf. Kaeppler (2010), Catalogue

[5] Brigham (1918), "Revised List of Hawaiian Ahuula", pp. 59–61 lists 16 capes (incl. 1 cloak) and additional items as "Cook (?)".

[6] Kaeppler (1985), p. 112 using subtypes counts 6 "trapezoidal" types and 10 "straight necklines and shaped bottoms" type.

[malo1903-7] ^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f Malo, David (1903). Hawaiian Antiquities: (Moolelo Hawaii). Translated by Emerson, Nathaniel Bright. Honolulu: Hawaiian Gazette. pp. 63, 106–107.

[pratt2005-8] Pratt, H. Douglas (2005). The Hawaiian Honeycreepers: Drepanidinae. OUP Oxford. pp. 279–280. ISBN 9780198546535.

[FOOTNOTEHall192341,_42-9] Hall (1923), pp. 41, 42.

[beaglehole2017-11] Beaglehole, J.C., ed. (2017). The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery: Volume III Part 1: The Voyage of the Resolution and Discovery, 1776-1780. Routledge. n1, Supplement to p. 594. ISBN 9781351543217.

[kirch2019-12] Kirch, Patrick Vinton (2019). How Chiefs Became Kings: Divine Kingship and the Rise of Archaic States in Ancient Hawai'i. Univ of California Press. pp. 43–44. ISBN 9780520303393.

[harger1983-13] Harger, Barbara (1983). "Dress and Adornment of Pre-European Hawaiians" (PDF). National Meeting Proceedings. Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing: 9–10.

[14] Holt (1985), p. 169

[FOOTNOTEBrigham191812-15] Brigham (1918), p. 12.

[FOOTNOTEHiroa19444–5-16] Hiroa (1944), pp. 4–5.

[FOOTNOTEKaeppler1985119-17] Kaeppler (1985), p. 119.

[18] "Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Nā Hulu Ali'i". de Young. 2014-07-29. Retrieved 2021-06-05.

[19] Kaeppler (2010), p. 11 apud Hellmich (2015), p. 75

[FOOTNOTEKaeppler1985116–117-20] Kaeppler (1985), pp. 116–117.

[clerke-apud-holt-21] Capt. Charles Clerke's description of birds whose feathers were used (from Capt. Cooke's voyage) apud Holt (1985), p. 21: "ʻiʻiwi.. main source of red feathers", etc., as described by

[FOOTNOTEHiroa19441-22] Hiroa (1944), p. 1.

[dict-olona-23] Mary Kawena Pukui; Samuel Hoyt Elbert (2003). "lookup of olonā". in Hawaiian Dictionary. Ulukau, the Hawaiian Electronic Library, University of Hawaii Press.

[dict-uo-24] Mary Kawena Pukui; Samuel Hoyt Elbert (2003). "lookup of ʻuo". in Hawaiian Dictionary. Ulukau, the Hawaiian Electronic Library, University of Hawaii Press.

[FOOTNOTEBrigham189951–52-25] Brigham (1899), pp. 51–52.

[26] Arcayna, Nancy (12 September 2008). "Cloaked in native culture: Kaha'i Topolinski preserves the art of Hawaiian feather work". Honolulu Star Bulletin. Retrieved 28 November 2010.

[FOOTNOTEHiroa194410-27] Hiroa (1944), p. 10.

[withington1953-28] Withington, Antoinette (1986) [1953]. The Golden Cloak: Tales of the Pacific. Mutual Publishing LLC. p. x. ISBN 9780935180268.

[bishop1940-29] Bishop, Marcia Brown (1940). Hawaiian Life of the Pre-European Period. Southworth-Anthoensen Press. pp. 36–37.

[FOOTNOTEBrigham189910–11-31] Brigham (1899), pp. 10–11.

[FOOTNOTEBrigham189910-32] Brigham (1899), p. 10.

[FOOTNOTEHiroa19449–10-33] Hiroa (1944), pp. 9–10.

[34] The feather items collected by Captain Cooke's voyagers were "almost invariably those of the ʻiʻiwi", but one exception employed patches of feathered skin, some belonging to ʻapapane.^[8]

[35] But not the dull black feathers of the mamo (Hiroa (1944), pp. 1, 10).

[henshaw1902-36] Henshaw, H. W. (1902). Birds of the Hawaiian Islands: Being a Complete List of the Birds of the Hawaiian Possessions, with Notes on Their Habits. Honolulu: Thomas G. Thrum. pp. 51–53.

[peterson2020-37] Peterson, Roger Tory (2020). Peterson Field Guide to Birds of North America (2 ed.). Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. p. 456. ISBN 9781328771445.

[38] "Kauaʻi ʻŌʻō" (PDF). Hawaii’s Comprehensive Wildlife Conservation Strategy. State of Hawaiʻi. 1 October 2005. Retrieved 28 November 2010.

[FOOTNOTEHiroa19448-39] Hiroa (1944), p. 8.

[40] Brigham (1899), pp. 50–51 with photographs and illustrations.

[41] Hiroa (1944), p. 2 and weaving illustrated in Fig. 1.

[FOOTNOTEHiroa19441,_3–4-43] Hiroa (1944), pp. 1, 3–4.

[FOOTNOTEHiroa19443–5-45] Hiroa (1944), pp. 3–5.

[FOOTNOTEKaeppler1985111–112-46] Kaeppler (1985), pp. 111–112.

[jarves1843-47] Jarves, James Jackson (1843). History of the Hawaiian Islands: Embracing Their Antiquities, Mythology, Legends, Discovery by Europeans in the Sixteenth Century, Re-discovery by Cook. London: Edward Moxon. pp. 99, 2.

[FOOTNOTECook1842377-48] Cook (1842), p. 377.

[49] Cook's Journal, [26] January 1779: "Terreeoboo (=Kalaniʻōpuʻu, king of Owhyhee^[43])rose up, and.. threw over the Captain's shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan into his hand. He also spread at his feet five or six other cloaks.."^[44]

[FOOTNOTEJarves1843105-50] Jarves (1843), p. 105.

[FOOTNOTEThomas201677–81-51] Thomas (2016), pp. 77–81.

[kaeppler2011-52] Both Thomas (2016), n28 and Scobie (2019) defer to Kaeppler's 2011 book for a full account of the museum: Kaeppler, Adrienne (2011), Holophusicon--the Leverian Museum: An Eighteenth-century English Institution of Science, Curiosity, and Art, Vienna: ZKF Publishers, ISBN 9783981162042

[FOOTNOTEThomas201682–83-53] Thomas (2016), pp. 82–83.

[scobie2019-54] Scobie, Ruth (2019). "Chapter 2 The Immortality of James Cook". Celebrity Culture and the Myth of Oceania in Britain: 1770-1823. Boydell & Brewer. pp. 65–66. ISBN 9781783274086.

[kaeppler2006-55] Kaeppler, Adrienne (28 July 2006). "Transcript of Paper: To attempt some new discoveries in that vast unknown tract". Cook’s Pacific Encounters symposium. National Museum of Australia. Retrieved 28 November 2010.^{[permanent dead link]}

[kaeppler1978-56] Kaeppler, Adrienne (1978), "Artificial Curiosities": Being an Exposition of Native Manufactures Collected on the Three Pacific Voyages of Captain James Cook, R. N., at the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, January 18, 1978-August 31, 1978, on the Occasion of the Bicentennial of the European Discovery of the Hawaiian Islands ..., Bishop Museum Press, p. 62, ISBN 9780910240246

[FOOTNOTEBrigham191841–42-57] Brigham (1918), pp. 41–42.

[KaWaiOla-2020-07-29-58] "Cloak and Helmet Gifted to Captain Cook is Permanently Returned to Hawaiʻi". Ka Wai Ola. Office of Hawaiian Affairs. 29 July 2020.

[schorch_2020-59] Schorch, Philipp (2020). Refocusing Ethnographic Museums through Oceanic Lenses. Noelle M.K.Y. Kahanu, Sean Mallon, Cristián Moreno Pakarati, Mara Mulrooney, Nina Tonga, Ty P. Kāwika Tengan. University of Hawaii Press. pp. 6–7. ISBN 9780824881177.

[60] "A Captain's Chiefly Gift – Tales from Te Papa episode 52". Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 16 November 2010.

[62] Brigham (1899), p. 56 list of 100 ʻahu ʻula was later revised in Brigham (1918), p. 39 to a list of 117 worldwide, of which 1–16 are at the Bishop Museum, but includes 1 pau; 6 are "cloaks" the rest are "capes". Hiroa (1944), p. 3 says there are 10 cloaks.

[64] Brigham (1899) #1, p. 58

[brigham-kiwalao-65] Brigham (1899) #2., pp. 58–59

[chief-66] "Bishop Museum Loans Rare Artifacts to Kauai'i". Bishop Museum, Honolulu. 19 October 2006. Retrieved 28 November 2010.

[67] "Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Nā Hulu Ali'i". de Young/Legion of Honour Fine arts museums of San Francisco. 11 August 2015. Retrieved 2024-03-22.

[68] "Feather Cloak: National Museum of Natural History". Smithsonian Institute. Retrieved 2024-03-22.. Feather cloak originally of Chief Kekuakalani held by the National Museum of Natural History (USNM Number E76180-0).

[FOOTNOTEHiroa19443–4-69] Hiroa (1944), pp. 3–4.

[70] Brigham (1918), p. 12, item No. 73 in the Revised List, p. 59

[71] Hawaiian feather cape presented to Captain Cook, 1778

[72] Brigham (1918), p. 12, naming No. 26, similar to No. 33–35 in the Revised List, p. 59, cross-referenced to Brigham (1899), pp. <!64 recte-->65, 66, Fig. 69, 76–78 (olim No. 25, 32–34 in the outdated list)

[75] J. Susan Corley: „National Museums Scotland Displays One of Kamehameha II’s Featherwork ‘Ahu‘ula Cloaks“ auf evols.library.manoa.hawaii.edu

[76] "ʻahu ʻula (Feathered cloak)". Collections Online. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 28 November 2010.

[77] "ʻahu ʻula (Feathered cloak)". Collections Online. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 28 November 2010.

[78] "ʻahu ʻula (Feathered cloak)". Collections Online. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 28 November 2010.

[79] "Hawaiian feather cloak (ʻahu ʻula) and helmet (mahiole)". Collections Online. Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Retrieved 28 November 2010.

[81] "My favourite object: Ahu'ula". Auckland Museum. Retrieved 13 June 2021.

[82] "The 'ahu'ula feather cloak". Musée d'ethnographie de Genève. Retrieved 6 December 2022.

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@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 [[File:Haalelea's Feather Cape.png|thumb|Haalelea's Feather Cape]]
-The '''''ʻahu ʻula''''' ([[feather cloak]] in the [[Hawaiian language]], literally "red/sacred garment for the upper torso"<ref name="kamehiro2009"/>),<ref name="dict-ahuula"/> and the ''[[mahiole]]'' (feather helmet) were symbols of the highest rank of the chiefly [[alii|''aliʻi'']]<ref name="dict-alii"/> class of [[ancient Hawaii]].
+The '''''ʻahu ʻula''''' (feather cape or [[feather cloak|cloak]] in the [[Hawaiian language]], literally "red/sacred garment for the upper torso"<ref name="kamehiro2009"/>),<ref name="dict-ahuula"/> and the ''[[mahiole]]'' (feather helmet) were symbols of the highest rank of the chiefly [[alii|''aliʻi'']]<ref name="dict-alii"/> class of [[ancient Hawaii]].
-There are over 160 examples of this traditional clothing in museums around the world.<ref name=dict-ahuula/> At least six of these cloaks were collected during the voyages of [[Captain Cook]].<ref name=ak>{{Cite web | last = Kaeppler | first = Adrienne |authorlink=Adrienne L. Kaeppler| title = Transcript of Paper: To attempt some new discoveries in that vast unknown tract| work = Cook’s Pacific Encounters symposium | publisher = National Museum of Australia | date = 28 July 2006 | url = http://www.nma.gov.au/audio/transcripts/cook/NMA_Kaeppler_20060728.html | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref> These cloaks are made from a woven netting decorated with bird feathers and are examples of fine [[featherwork]] techniques. One of these cloaks was included in a painting of Cook's death by [[Johann Zoffany]].
+There are over 160 examples of this traditional clothing in museums around the world.<ref name=dict-ahuula/><ref>Cf. {{harvp|Kaeppler|2010}}, ''Catalogue''</ref> At least sixteen of these capes were collected during the voyages of [[Captain Cook]].<ref>{{harvp|Brigham|1918}}, "Revised List of Hawaiian Ahuula", pp. 59–61 lists 16 capes (incl. 1 cloak) and additional items as "Cook (?)".</ref><ref>{{harvp|Kaeppler|1985|p=112}} using subtypes counts 6 "[[trapezoid|trapezoidal]]" types and 10 "straight necklines and shaped bottoms" type.</ref>
+These cloaks are made from a woven netting decorated with bird feathers and are examples of fine [[featherwork]] techniques. One of these cloaks was included in a painting of Cook's death by [[Johann Zoffany]].
 ==Privileges==
@@ Line 11: / Line 13: @@
 The size of the ''ʻahu ʻula'' was an indicator of rank.<ref name="beaglehole2017"/> Some commentators distinguish the full-length ''ʻahu ʻula'' as "cloaks", extending from the neck to nearly the feet, and these were allowable only the highest-ranking elite, where as regular chiefs wore "capes" of lesser sizes.<ref name="kirch2019"/><ref name="harger1983"/> [[John Dominis Holt IV |Holt]] also makes such distinction, glossing {{lang|haw|ʻahuliʻī}} as "feather cape" ({{lang|haw|liʻī}} meaning "small" ) and {{lang|haw|ʻahuʻula}} as "feather cloak".<ref>{{harvp|Holt|1985|p=[https://books.google.com/books?id=-aLYAAAAMAAJ&q=%22feather+cloak%22 169]}}</ref>
-Some examples of ''ʻahu ʻula'' have been discussed as "war capes",<!--i.e., not shorter due to status considerations-->{{sfnp|Brigham|1918|p=12}}{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=4–5}}　(Cf. {{section link||War capes}} for specific examples, below).
+Some examples of ''ʻahu ʻula'' have been discussed as "war capes"<!--i.e., not shorter due to status considerations-->{{sfnp|Brigham|1918|p=12}}{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=4–5}} (Cf. {{section link||War capes}} for specific examples, below).
-The feathered cloaks and capes provided physical protection, and were believed to provide spiritual protection for their wearers.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2014-07-29|title=Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Nā Hulu Ali'i|url=https://deyoung.famsf.org/exhibitions/featherwork|access-date=2021-06-05|website=de Young}}</ref><ref name="christman-campbell2019"/>
+The feathered cloaks and capes provided physical protection, and were believed to provide spiritual protection for their wearers.{{sfnp|Kaeppler|1985|p=119}}<ref>{{Cite web|date=2014-07-29|title=Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Nā Hulu Ali'i|url=https://deyoung.famsf.org/exhibitions/featherwork|access-date=2021-06-05|website=de Young}}</ref> And conversely the ''mana'' (spiritual power) of the wearer will be imparted on the cape,<ref>{{harvp|Kaeppler|2010|p=11}} ''apud'' {{harvp|Hellmich|2015|p=75}}</ref> and the father's mana can pass down to his heirs via the cape.{{sfnp|Kaeppler|1985|pp=116–117}}
 ==Construction==
@@ Line 21: / Line 23: @@
 The plant used to make the netting is {{lang|haw|olonā}} or ''[[Touchardia latifolia]]'', a member of the [[Urticaceae|nettle family]]<ref name="dict-olona"/> (cf. {{section link||Early and later types}}).
-Hundreds of thousands of feathers were required for each cloak. A small bundle of feathers ({{lang|haw|ʻuo}} or {{lang|haw|ʻuwo}}<ref name="dict-uo"/>) was gathered and tied into the netting. Bundles were tied in close proximity to form a uniform covering of the surface of the cloak.<ref>{{Cite web | last = Arcayna | first = Nancy | title = Cloaked in native culture: Kaha'i Topolinski preserves the art of Hawaiian feather work | work = Honolulu Star Bulletin | date = 12 September 2008| url = http://archives.starbulletin.com/2008/09/12/features/story01.html | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref><ref name="christman-campbell2019"/>
+Hundreds of thousands of feathers were required for each cloak. A small bundle of feathers ({{lang|haw|ʻuo}} or {{lang|haw|ʻuwo}}<ref name="dict-uo"/>) was gathered and tied into the netting. Bundles were tied in close proximity to form a uniform covering of the surface of the cloak.{{sfnp|Brigham|1899|pp=51–52}}<ref>{{Cite web | last = Arcayna | first = Nancy | title = Cloaked in native culture: Kaha'i Topolinski preserves the art of Hawaiian feather work | work = Honolulu Star Bulletin | date = 12 September 2008| url = http://archives.starbulletin.com/2008/09/12/features/story01.html | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref>
 === Bird feathers ===
@@ Line 40: / Line 42: @@
 ===Early and later types===
-Early feathered capes used coarse netting as foundation, first covered by larger but drab-colored feathers (white, black, brown, form chicken or [[jungle fowl]] and other birds), atop which decorative feathers were mounted. Later, closer-plaited (hand-knotted) meshes were developed to be used as base, to which the prized feathers could be attached directly.{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|p=8}}<ref name="harger1983"/><ref name="pratt2005"/> The fine mesh were known as {{lang|haw|nae}}, and woven from ''{{lang|haw|[[Touchardia|olonā]]}}'' fiber.<ref>{{harvp|Brigham|1899|pp=50–51}} with photographs and illustrations.</ref><ref>{{harvp|Hiroa|1944|p=2}} and weaving illustrated in Fig. 1.</ref><ref name="bishop1940"/> Also the shape evolved from rectangular to circular, but all the known rectangular specimens (including the "war capes" discussed above) are held outside of Hawaii. The circular type may have developed in Hawaii due to foreign (non-Polynesian) influence.{{efn|Cf. Māori feather cloaks whose known examples are rectangular.}}{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=1, 3–4}}
+Early feathered capes used coarse netting as foundation, first covered by larger but drab-colored feathers (white, black, brown, form chicken or [[jungle fowl]] and other birds), atop which decorative feathers were mounted. Later, closer-plaited (hand-knotted) meshes were developed to be used as base, to which the prized feathers could be attached directly.{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|p=8}}<ref name="harger1983"/><ref name="pratt2005"/> The fine mesh were known as {{lang|haw|nae}} (or {{lang|haw|naepuni}} or {{lang|haw|puni}}{{sfnp|Kaeppler|1985|p=119}}), and woven from ''{{lang|haw|[[Touchardia|olonā]]}}'' fiber.<ref>{{harvp|Brigham|1899|pp=50–51}} with photographs and illustrations.</ref><ref>{{harvp|Hiroa|1944|p=2}} and weaving illustrated in Fig. 1.</ref><ref name="bishop1940"/> Also the shape evolved from rectangular to circular, but all the known rectangular specimens (including the "war capes" discussed above) are held outside of Hawaii. The circular type may have developed in Hawaii due to foreign (non-Polynesian) influence.{{efn|Cf. Māori feather cloaks whose known examples are rectangular.}}{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=1, 3–4}}
-Also, early types of Hawaiian feather cloaks were rectangular, though none of the surviving examples remained in Hawaii and have been kept elsewhere, so that only the later circular forms became generally family to the Hawaiian populace.{{efn|[[Māori]] rectangular robes remain in New Zealand, as Hiroa notes.}}{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=1, 3–4}} These early type small capes or rectangular ''ʻahu ʻula'' include {{section link||War capes}} types, below.{{harvp|Brigham|1918|p=12}}{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=3–5}}
+Also, early types of Hawaiian feather cloaks were rectangular, though none of the surviving examples remained in Hawaii and have been kept elsewhere, so that only the later circular forms became generally family to the Hawaiian populace.{{efn|[[Māori]] rectangular robes remain in New Zealand, as Hiroa notes.}}{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=1, 3–4}} These early type small capes or rectangular ''ʻahu ʻula'' include {{section link||War capes}} types, below.{{sfnp|Brigham|1918|p=12}}{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=3–5}}
+The earlier types lumped together as "rectangular" by Hiroa (''aka'' [[Peter Buck (anthropologist)|Buck]], 1944, 1957) were later subdivided into the "trapezoidal" type vs. "straight collar with shaped bottom" type by Kaeppler (1985).{{sfnp|Kaeppler|1985|pp=111–112}}
 ==Gift to Captain James Cook==
@@ Line 48: / Line 52: @@
 [[File:Zoffany Death of Captain Cook.jpg|thumb|right|''The Death of Captain James Cook''{{right|{{small|—Oil painting, [[Johann Zoffany]] (c. 1795), 137.2cm x 182.9cm, [[National Maritime Museum]]}}}}]]
-When British explorer [[James Cook]] visited in Hawai‘i on 26 January 1778 he was received by a high chief [[Kalaniʻōpuʻu]]. At the end of the meeting Kalaniʻōpuʻu placed the feathered mahiole and cloak he had been wearing on Cook.<ref name="christman-campbell2019"/> Kalaniʻōpuʻu also laid several other cloaks at Cook's feet as well as four large pigs and other offerings of food. Much of the material from Cook's voyages including the helmet and cloak ended up in the collection of [[Ashton Lever|Sir Ashton Lever]]. He exhibited them in his museum, the [[Holophusikon]].<ref name="ak"/> It was while at this museum that Cook's mahiole and cloak were borrowed by artist [[Johann Zoffany]] in the 1790s and included in his painting ''[[The Death of Captain James Cook (Zoffany)|The Death of Captain James Cook]]''.<ref name=ak/>
+When British explorer [[James Cook]] visited in Hawai‘i on 26 January 1778 he was received by a high chief [[Kalaniʻōpuʻu]]. At the end of the meeting Kalaniʻōpuʻu placed the feathered mahiole and cloak he had been wearing on Cook. Kalaniʻōpuʻu also laid several other cloaks at Cook's feet as well as four large pigs and other offerings of food.{{Refn|Cook's Journal, [26] January 1779: "Terreeoboo ({{=}}Kalaniʻōpuʻu, king of Owhyhee<ref name="jarves1843"/>)rose up, and.. threw over the Captain's shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan into  his hand. He also spread at his feet five or six other cloaks.."{{sfnp|Cook|1842|p=377}}}}{{sfnp|Jarves|1843|p=105}} Much of the material from Cook's voyages including the helmet and cloak ended up in the collection of [[Ashton Lever|Sir Ashton Lever]]. He exhibited them in his museum, the [[Holophusikon]],<!--DEAD ref name="kaeppler2006"/-->{{sfnp|Thomas|2016|pp=77–81}}<ref name="kaeppler2011"/> including Kalaniʻōpuʻu's cape and helm.{{sfnp|Thomas|2016|pp=82–83}}<ref name="scobie2019"/> It was while at this museum that Cook's mahiole and cloak were borrowed by artist [[Johann Zoffany]] in the 1790s and included in his painting ''[[The Death of Captain James Cook (Zoffany)|The Death of Captain James Cook]]''.<ref name="kaeppler2006"/><ref name="kaeppler1978"/>
-Lever went bankrupt and his collection was disposed of by public lottery. The collection was obtained by [[James Parkinson (1730–1813)|James Parkinson]] who continued to exhibit it, at the [[Blackfriars Rotunda]] in London. He eventually sold the collection in 1806 in 7,000 separate sales.<ref name=ak/> {{cn span|The ''mahiole'' and cloak were purchased by the collector [[William Bullock (collector)|William Bullock]] who exhibited them in his own museum until 1819 when the collection was again sold.|date=March 2024}} The ''mahiole'' and cloak {{cn span|were then purchased by Charles Winn along with a number of other items and these remained in his family|date=March 2024}} until 1912, when Charles Winn's grandson, [[Rowland Winn, 2nd Baron St Oswald]], gave them to the [[Dominion of New Zealand]], precursor to the [[Te Papa|Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa]],<ref name="KaWaiOla-2020-07-29"/><ref name="schorch 2020"/>{{Refn|group="lower-alpha"|Cook's mahiole and cloak are featured in episode 52 of the mini-documentary television series ''[[Tales from Te Papa]]''.<ref>{{cite web|title=A Captain's Chiefly Gift – Tales from Te Papa episode 52 |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plq5KvoyUP8 |publisher=Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa |accessdate=16 November 2010}}</ref>}} but the cloak and helmet were repatriated to Hawaii as of March 2016, on a long-term loan basis, into the custody of the [[Bishop Museum]].<ref name="KaWaiOla-2020-07-29"/><ref name="schorch 2020"/>
+Lever went bankrupt and his collection was disposed of by public lottery. The collection was obtained by [[James Parkinson (1730–1813)|James Parkinson]] who continued to exhibit it, at the [[Blackfriars Rotunda]] in London. He eventually sold the collection in 1806 in 7,000 separate sales.<ref name="kaeppler2006"/> {{cn span|The ''mahiole'' and cloak were purchased by the collector [[William Bullock (collector)|William Bullock]] who exhibited them in his own museum until 1819 when the collection was again sold.|date=March 2024}} The ''mahiole'' and cloak {{cn span|were then purchased by Charles Winn along with a number of other items and these remained in his family|date=March 2024}} until 1912, when Charles Winn's grandson, [[Rowland Winn, 2nd Baron St Oswald]], gave them to the [[Dominion of New Zealand]],{{sfnp|Brigham|1918|pp=41–42}} precursor to the [[Te Papa|Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa]],<ref name="KaWaiOla-2020-07-29"/><ref name="schorch 2020"/>{{Refn|group="lower-alpha"|Cook's mahiole and cloak are featured in episode 52 of the mini-documentary television series ''[[Tales from Te Papa]]''.<ref>{{cite web|title=A Captain's Chiefly Gift – Tales from Te Papa episode 52 |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plq5KvoyUP8 |publisher=Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa |accessdate=16 November 2010}}</ref>}} but the cloak and helmet were repatriated to Hawaii as of March 2016, on a long-term loan basis, into the custody of the [[Bishop Museum]].<ref name="KaWaiOla-2020-07-29"/><ref name="schorch 2020"/>
 ==ʻAhu ʻula in museums==
@@ Line 69: / Line 73: @@
 As already noted, the early small capes{{sfnp|Brigham|1918|p=12}} or the "rectangular" style capes are all housed in collections outside Hawaii.{{sfnp|Hiroa|1944|pp=3–4}}
-Those examples classed as shorter ''ʻahu ʻula'' for combat, i.e., "war capes" include for example a cape from the [[Third voyage of James Cook|Cook expedition]] held by the [[Australian Museum]] in [[Sydney]].<ref>{{harvp|Brigham|1918|p=12}}, item No. 73 in the revised list, p. 59</ref><ref>[https://australian.museum/learn/cultures/pacific-collection/hawaiian-feather-cape-presented-to-captain-cook-1778/ Hawaiian feather cape presented to Captain Cook, 1778]</ref> There are four similar "war capes" in the British Museum.<ref>{{harvp|Brigham|1918|p=12}}, naming No. 26, similar to No. 33–35 in the revised list, p. 59, cross-referenced to {{harvp|Brigham|1899|pp=<!64 recte-->65, 66}}, Fig. 69, 76–78 (olim No. 25, 32–34 in the outdated list)</ref>{{Refn|group="lower-alpha"|The other "war capes" named by {{harvp|Brigham|1918|pp=12–13}} are a cape at Leyden, No. 64 and another at the [[Peabody Essex Museum]] of [[Salem, Massachusetts|Salem, Mass.]], No. 94. {{harvp|Hiroa|1944|pp=4–5}} identifies the Vienna cape with exposed netting (Pl. 8, 9) as a war cape, citing {{harvp|Brigham|1918}}<!--25, 26 possibly pp.24–26 and Fig. 25, Fig. 26, the Peabody cape and Cave cape[?], though "war cape" is not stated on those pages-->}}{{Refn|group="lower-alpha"|A man wears what Hiroa asserts to be a "war cape" in [[John Webber]]'s etching "An inland view, in Atooi (Waimea)" in Capt. Cooke (King's) ''A voyage to the Pacific Ocean'', Atlas of Plates volume, Pl. 35. A replica by [[William Hodges]] can be seen [[:File:An Inland View in Atooi, One of the Sandwich Islands (1785).jpg|here]].}}{{void|DEAD LINKS not archive-viewable: The British Museum has three of these cloaks.<ref>{{Cite web | title = Cloak | work = Collections Database Search | publisher = British Museum | url = https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_details.aspx?objectId=505211 | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web | title = Cloak | work = Collections Database Search | publisher = British Museum | url = https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_details.aspx?objectId=515295 | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web | title = Cloak | work = Collections Database Search | publisher = British Museum | url = https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_details.aspx?objectId=515294 | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref>}}
+Those examples classed as shorter ''ʻahu ʻula'' for combat, i.e., "war capes" include for example a cape from the [[Third voyage of James Cook|Cook expedition]] held by the [[Australian Museum]] in [[Sydney]].<ref>{{harvp|Brigham|1918|p=12}}, item No. 73 in the Revised List, p. 59</ref><ref>[https://australian.museum/learn/cultures/pacific-collection/hawaiian-feather-cape-presented-to-captain-cook-1778/ Hawaiian feather cape presented to Captain Cook, 1778]</ref> There are four similar "war capes" in the British Museum.<ref>{{harvp|Brigham|1918|p=12}}, naming No. 26, similar to No. 33–35 in the Revised List, p. 59, cross-referenced to {{harvp|Brigham|1899|pp=<!64 recte-->65, 66}}, Fig. 69, 76–78 (olim No. 25, 32–34 in the outdated list)</ref>{{Refn|group="lower-alpha"|The other "war capes" named by {{harvp|Brigham|1918|pp=12–13}} are a cape at Leyden, No. 64 and another at the [[Peabody Essex Museum]] of [[Salem, Massachusetts|Salem, Mass.]], No. 94. {{harvp|Hiroa|1944|pp=4–5}} identifies the Vienna cape with exposed netting (Pl. 8, 9; cf. {{harvp|Hellmich|2015}}, Fig. 10 in full colour) as a war cape, citing {{harvp|Brigham|1918}}<!--25, 26 possibly pp.24–26 and Fig. 25, Fig. 26, the Peabody cape and Cave cape[?], though "war cape" is not stated on those pages-->}}{{Refn|group="lower-alpha"|A man wears what Hiroa asserts to be a "war cape" in [[John Webber]]'s etching "An inland view, in Atooi (Kauai Island)" in Capt. Cooke (King's) ''A voyage to the Pacific Ocean'', Atlas of Plates volume, Pl. 35. A replica by [[William Hodges]] can be seen [[:File:An Inland View in Atooi, One of the Sandwich Islands (1785).jpg|here]].}}{{void|DEAD LINKS not archive-viewable: The British Museum has three of these cloaks.<ref>{{Cite web | title = Cloak | work = Collections Database Search | publisher = British Museum | url = https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_details.aspx?objectId=505211 | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web | title = Cloak | work = Collections Database Search | publisher = British Museum | url = https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_details.aspx?objectId=515295 | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web | title = Cloak | work = Collections Database Search | publisher = British Museum | url = https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_details.aspx?objectId=515294 | accessdate =28 November 2010}}</ref>}}
 ===Further examples===
@@ Line 91: / Line 95: @@
 <ref name="bishop1940">{{cite book|last=Bishop |first=Marcia Brown |author-link=<!--Marcia Brown Bishop--> |title=Hawaiian Life of the Pre-European Period|publisher=Southworth-Anthoensen Press|year=1940 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=0ZdEAAAAMAAJ&mamo |pages=36–37}}</ref>
-<ref name="christman-campbell2019">{{Cite book|last=Chrisman-Campbell |first=Kimberly |author-link=<!--Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell--> |title=Worn on This Day: the Clothes That Made History |date=2019 |publisher=Running Press |isbn=978-0-7624-9357-9 |location=Philadelphia |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=t4WLDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA21 |pages=21|oclc=1089571878 }}</ref>
 <ref name="dict-ahuula">{{Hawaiian Dictionaries |{{okina}}ahu {{okina}}ula |q='ahu 'ula }}</ref>
@@ Line 102: / Line 104: @@
 <ref name="henshaw1902">{{cite book|last=Henshaw |first=H. W. |author-link=Henry Wetherbee Henshaw |title=Birds of the Hawaiian Islands: Being a Complete List of the Birds of the Hawaiian Possessions, with Notes on Their Habits |place=Honolulu |publisher=Thomas G. Thrum |year=1902 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=tn4aAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA52 |pages=51–53}}</ref>
+<ref name="jarves1843">{{cite book|last=Jarves |first=James Jackson |author-link=James Jackson Jarves |title=History of the Hawaiian Islands: Embracing Their Antiquities, Mythology, Legends, Discovery by Europeans in the Sixteenth Century, Re-discovery by Cook.. |place=London |publisher=Edward Moxon |year=1843 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=A3AqAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA99 |pages=99, 2}}</ref>
+<ref name="kaeppler1978">{{citation|last=Kaeppler |first=Adrienne |author-link=Adrienne L. Kaeppler |title="Artificial Curiosities": Being an Exposition of Native Manufactures Collected on the Three Pacific Voyages of Captain James Cook, R. N., at the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, January 18, 1978-August 31, 1978, on the Occasion of the Bicentennial of the European Discovery of the Hawaiian Islands ... |place= |publisher=Bishop Museum Press |date=1978 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=rK-0AAAAIAAJ&q=Zoffany+%22Death+of+Captain%22 |page=62 |isbn=<!--0910240248, -->9780910240246 }}</ref>
+<ref name="kaeppler2006">{{Cite web|last=Kaeppler |first=Adrienne |author-link=Adrienne L. Kaeppler |title=Transcript of Paper: To attempt some new discoveries in that vast unknown tract |work=Cook’s Pacific Encounters symposium |publisher=National Museum of Australia | date = 28 July 2006 |url=http://www.nma.gov.au/audio/transcripts/cook/NMA_Kaeppler_20060728.html |accessdate =28 November 2010}}{{Dead link|date=March 2024|fix-attempted=yes}}</ref>
+<ref name="kaeppler2011">Both {{harvp|Thomas|2016}}, n28 and Scobie (2019) defer to Kaeppler's 2011 book for a full account of the museum: {{citation|last=Kaeppler |first=Adrienne |author-link=Adrienne L. Kaeppler |title=Holophusicon--the Leverian Museum: An Eighteenth-century English Institution of Science, Curiosity, and Art |place=Vienna |publisher=ZKF Publishers |date=2011 |url=<!--n/a--> |pages= |isbn=<!--3981162048, -->9783981162042}}</ref>
 <ref name="kamehiro2009">{{cite book|last=Kamehiro |first=Stacy L. |author-link=<!--Stacy L. Kamehiro--> |title=The Arts of Kingship: Hawaiian Art and National Culture of the Kalakaua Era |publisher=University of Hawaii Press |year=2009 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=oQCJ3NkS2ncC&pg=PA46 |pages=45–47 |isbn=<!--0824832639, -->9780824832636}}</ref>
@@ Line 114: / Line 124: @@
 <ref name="pratt2005">{{cite book|last=Pratt |first=H. Douglas |author-link=Harold Douglas Pratt Jr. |title=The Hawaiian Honeycreepers: Drepanidinae |location= |publisher=OUP Oxford |date=2005 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-5IUDAAAQBAJ&pg=PA280 |pp=279–280 |isbn=<!--019854653X, -->9780198546535}}</ref>
+<ref name="scobie2019">{{cite book|last=Scobie |first=Ruth |author-link=<!--Ruth Scobie--> |chapter=Chapter 2 The Immortality of James Cook |title=Celebrity Culture and the Myth of Oceania in Britain: 1770-1823 |location= |publisher=Boydell & Brewer |date=2019 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2gk7EAAAQBAJ&pg=PA65 |pp=65–66<!--5996-->|isbn=<!--1783274085, -->9781783274086}}</ref>
 <ref name="schorch 2020">{{cite book|last=Schorch  |first=Philipp |author-link=<!--Philipp Schorch--> |others=Noelle M.K.Y. Kahanu, Sean Mallon, Cristián Moreno Pakarati, Mara Mulrooney, Nina Tonga, Ty P. Kāwika Tengan |title=Refocusing Ethnographic Museums through Oceanic Lenses |place= |publisher=University of Hawaii Press |year=2020 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=dAvPDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA6 |pages=6–7 |isbn=<!--0824881176, -->9780824881177}}</ref>
@@ Line 122: / Line 134: @@
 ;Bibliography
 {{refbegin}}
-* {{citation|last=Brigham |first=William T. |author-link=William Tufts Brigham |chapter=Hawaiian Feather Work |title=Memoirs of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum of Polynesian Ethnology and Natural History Publication (Bayard Dominick Expedition (1920-1921) |publisher=Bishop Museum Press |date=1899 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YZyy3M9uN4wC&pg=PR17 |pages=1–81 + ii}}
+* {{citation|last=Brigham |first=William T. |author-link=William Tufts Brigham |chapter=Hawaiian Feather Work |title=Memoirs of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum of Polynesian Ethnology and Natural History Publication (Bayard Dominick Expedition (1920-1921) |volume=I |publisher=Bishop Museum Press |date=1899 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YZyy3M9uN4wC&pg=PR17 |pages=1–81 + ii}}
 * {{citation|last=Brigham |first=William T. |author-link=William Tufts Brigham |author-mask=2 |chapter=Additional notes on Hawaiian feather work: second supplement |title=Memoirs of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum |volume=VII |number=1 |publisher=Bishop Museum Press |date=1918|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Q620AAAAIAAJ |pages=}}
-* {{cite journal|last=Hall  |first=H. U. |author-link=Henry Usher Hall|title=Two Hawaiian Feather Garments, Ahuula |journal=The Museum Journal (University of Pennsylvania) |volume=14 |number=1 |year=March 1923|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jqkrAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA41 |pages=34–46}}
+* {{citation|last=Cook |first=James |author-link=James Cook |chapter=Hawaiian Feather Work |title=The Voyages of Captain James Cook. Illustrated ... With an Appendix, Giving an Account of the Present Condition of the South Sea Islands |volume=2 |place=London |publisher=William Smith |date=1842 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LVPsgB2I_0gC&pg=PA428|pages=}}
+* {{cite journal|last=Hall |first=H. U. |author-link=Henry Usher Hall |title=Two Hawaiian Feather Garments, Ahuula |journal=The Museum Journal (University of Pennsylvania) |volume=14 |number=1 |year=March 1923|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jqkrAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA41 |pages=34–46}}
+* {{citation|last=Hellmich |first=Christina |author-link=<!--Christina Hellmich--> |title=Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Na. Hulu Ali'i (ART on view) |date=2015 |url=https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5ac530cff2e6b1f8c1cee361/t/5e9fdc2e18019900d18620bd/1587534902450/Royal+Hawaiian+Featherwork+Na+Hulu+Ali%27i+by+Christina+Hellmich+Tribal+Art+Magazine.pdf |pages=75–81}}{{harvp|Hellmich|2015|p=}}
 * {{cite journal |last=Hiroa |first=Te Rangi |author-link=Te Rangi Hiroa |title=The Local Evolution of Hawaiian Feather Capes and Cloaks |journal=The Journal of the Polynesian Society |volume=53 |number=1 |year=1944 |url=http://www.jps.auckland.ac.nz/document/Volume_53_1944/Volume_53,_No._1/The_local_evolution_of_Hawaiian_feather_capes_and_cloaks,_by_Te_Rangi_Hiroa,_p_1-16/p1?action=null  |pages=1–16 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081014222234/http://www.jps.auckland.ac.nz/document/Volume_53_1944/Volume_53,_No._1/The_local_evolution_of_Hawaiian_feather_capes_and_cloaks,_by_Te_Rangi_Hiroa,_p_1-16/p1?action=null |archive-date=2008-10-14}}
 * {{cite book|last=Holt |first=John Dominis |author-link=John Dominis Holt IV |title=The Art of Featherwork in Old Hawai'i |publisher=Topgallant Publishing Company |date=1985 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-aLYAAAAMAAJ&q=feather+cape |pages=|isbn=<!--0914916688, -->9780914916680}}
+* {{citation|last=Kaeppler |first=Adrienne |author-link=Adrienne L. Kaeppler |title=Hawaiian Art and Society : Traditions and Transformations |editor1-last=Hooper |editor1-first=Antony |editor1-link=<!--Antony Hooper--> |editor2-last=Huntsman |editor2-first=Judith |editor2-link=<!--Judith Huntsman--> |work=Transformations of Polynesian Culture |place=Auckland  |publisher=Wellington Polynesian Society |date=1985 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3v5_AAAAMAAJ&q=protection |pages=105–131|series=Memoirs of the Polynesian Society 45 |isbn=<!--0317392328, -->9780317392326}}
+* {{citation|last=Kaeppler |first=Adrienne |author-link=Adrienne L. Kaeppler |author-mask=2 |title=Hawaiian Featherwork: Catalogue Raisonné  of Pre-1900 Feathered-God Images, Cloaks, Capes, Helmets |editor1-last=Rooij |editor1-first=Willem de |editor1-link=Willem de Rooij |editor2-last=Meyer-Krahmer|editor2-first=Benjamin |editor2-link=<!--Benjamin Meyer-Krahmer--> |work=Intolerance |place=Berlin |publisher=Nationalgalerie— Staatliche Museen zu Berlin<!--Düsseldorf: Feymedia--> |date=2010 |url=<!--n/a--> |pages=1 |isbn=<!--9783941459236, , -->3941459236}}
+* {{cite book|last=Thomas |first=Sophie |author-link=<!--Sophie Thomas--> |chapter=Chapter 3 Feather Cloaks and English Collectors: Cook's Voyages and the Objects of the Museum |editor1-last=Baird |editor1-first=Ileana |editor1-link=<!--Ileana Baird--> |editor2-last=Ionescu |editor2-first=Christina |editor2-link=<!--Christina Ionescu--> |title=Eighteenth-Century Thing Theory in a Global Context: From Consumerism to Celebrity Culture |place= |publisher=Routledge |date=2016 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NKAWDAAAQBAJ&pg=PA81 |pages=69–88 |isbn=<!--1317145453, -->9781317145455}}
 {{refend}}